Curly Girl Method - The Ultimate Beginner's Guide to Beautiful Curls
| Authored by: Adeeba |
| Reviewed by: Kapil Dhameja |
| Estimated Reading Time: 6 minutes |
Curly Hair is different from all other types of hair; it has its own unique personality. From whimsical curly spirals to crazy curls that seem to be "sticking straight out like Wi-Fi antennas", curly hair is like magic. Like all special things, curly hair also requires extra care.
That's where the Curly Girl Method (CGM) comes into play. It is an everyday routine that has made a dramatic difference and has changed many people's lives as well as their curls have improved.
What Makes Curly Hair So Special
Curly hair is unique compared to straight hair because curls tend to dry naturally. Because of all the bends and twists in the curl, the strands are fragile and prone to frizzing or breaking off.
This reason alone is why curly hair should not be treated like straight hair; treating the two types of hair the same would be the equivalent of watering a cactus the same way you water a lotus plant. They both need different types of care based on their unique genes.
Curly Hair Also Requires:
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More Moisture
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Less Aggressive Cleansers
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Greater Water Retention
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Gentle Handling
CGM (Curly Girl Method) is a haircare routine designed specifically for those with curly or wavy hair, that does not include any product that would harm the hair, but rather adds moisture and nourishment.
Why It Requires an Everyday Routine
Curl Pattern Variations
There are many different ways in which hair can curl, resulting in a unique look for each person's curls.
Inability of Natural Oils to Travel Downward
Because of the way curly hair curls into spirals, the natural oils on the scalp have difficulty traveling down towards the ends of your hair, leading to dryness at the ends and frizziness.
Susceptibility to Dryness
Curly hair dries out faster than straight hair and needs to be moisturized regularly.
Weakened strength of hair
The curls create weak points in your hair; therefore, if you abuse or handle your curled hair, the ends are more likely to break off.
Sensitivity to the Environment
Humidity, temperature changes, and the use of pillows and scarves affects the definition of your curls very easily.
Frizz
When hair is dry (or has been disturbed), it quickly becomes frizzy and puffy.
Nourishing hair care products for dry and damaged hair
Daily Care is not equal to washing Curls
Everyday care for curly hair focuses on rehydrating and protecting your curls. The number of washes of your hair depends on your hair type, but, depending on the frequency of your washes, your hair may lose its shape. Therefore, you will want to focus a lot on maintaining your curls.
The Basics of CGM
1) No Sulphates
Although curly hair is not dirty, it does contain more natural oils than straight/wavy hair types. Curly hair needs more moisture than other types, and since sulphate strongly removes the oil from the scalp, curls can become more frizzy and dry. That is why CGM avoids sulphate shampoo.
2) Avoid Multiple Applications of SILICONES
Silicones create the appearance of shine and are commonly used in a variety of hair care products. Silicones do not provide the moisture needed by your hair type. CGM does not use silicones because the curls will receive all of the total moisture.
3) Heat Styling Must Be Minimal to None
Both blowouts and straightening irons may loosen the curl pattern and cause damage/breakage to the hair. The Curly Girl Method (CGM) will allow you to have your hair in its best condition by air-drying it or using a diffuser on the lowest setting so the curls can remain bouncy/healthy/natural.
4) The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is all about moisture!
Moisture is essential for curl definition and is the basis of CGM. Conditioners, deep conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and gels that hold moisture in. Curls that are well moisturized will clump and create definition, rather than turn into frizzy curls.
5) Detangle your curls gently!
Curls are unique; therefore, you must treat them gently. Brushing curly hair while it's dry will create breakage and frizziness. CGM states that you should only detangle curly hair when it's either damp or wet and has been coated with a sufficient amount of leave-in conditioner. To detangle curly hair safely and effectively, below are a few options you can use to accomplish it:
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A comb with wide teeth, or a seamless detangling comb.
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Your fingers (this is your gentlest option).
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A conditioner or leave-in product so that your knots will separate easily.
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A special detangling brush created specifically for curly hair (make sure to use this brush gently and only on wet hair).
Begin detangling from the ends of your hair and progress upwards towards your scalp. Take your time because your curls will appreciate it with improved definition and less breakage.
6) Scrunching Up and Enhancing Curl Pattern
When using the Curly Girl Method (CGM), you will lift the curl instead of comb downward. The scrunching method will encourage the curls to form tighter, rounder spirals and is one of the most enjoyable parts of the Curly Girl Method when you see your limp curls come alive!
7) The Best Kind of Gel to Use
Curly Girl Method (CGM) recommends using only light-weight, water-based gels that are free of drying alcohols. These lightweight gels hold in moisture, define curls, prevent frizz and keep your curls intact for days after the gel.
Step by Step CGM Routine
The Curly Girl Method is a soft, moisture-filled method that steers clear of all drying agents and harsh chemicals so that your curls are kept healthy, well-defined, and free of any frizz. Let's discuss the steps to properly follow this system:
Step 1 - "Reset wash" (do only once)
Prior to following The Curly Girl Method (CGM), you should perform a reset wash to remove the product buildup. Use a clarifying shampoo that effectively cleans the hair. This step will help you prepare your hair for the new process of your curls through hydration.
Step 2 - "Change to CGM approved cleansers"
After doing the reset wash, use a low-poo shampoo (a mild sulphate-free shampoo that cleans your hair) and/or co-wash conditioners (i.e., conditioners used as cleansers) depending on how oily your scalp is. Using these types of cleansers will keep your curls moisturized and balanced without removing all the natural oils from your scalp and hair.
Tip: If you find yourself sweating excessively on the scalp or having an itchy scalp, you can alternate between co-washing and using low-poos.
Step 3 - "Condition generously"
Curly hair requires moisture. When choosing a conditioner to use while following CGM, you should use a silicone-free conditioner and detangle your hair using either your fingers or a wide-tooth comb using water as added lubrication.
Step 4 - Leave in Conditioner
To use your leave-in conditioner, which is the fourth step of this process, you will apply it to your damp hair for maximum moisture retention throughout the day. Scrunching your hair up will help you achieve defined curls.
When selecting a leave-in conditioner, make sure that it does not contain any silicones or drying alcohols. Silicones can weigh curls down, while drying alcohols can further dry out the hair.
Step 5 - Use a gel/curl cream
Use a gel that does not contain either drying alcohol or silicones. Like before, the method of applying gel is not important; both scrunching and praying hands are effective. Once the gel is set and has dried, it will form a gel cast around the curls. The gel cast helps prevent frizz.
Rosemary Hair Gel for Curly, Dry & Frizzy Hair with Plant Based Keratin
Step 6- Drying your curls
Ideally, when drying curls, you should use either a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt. If neither of these options are available, you may use a regular towel; however, this is highly likely to cause frizz.
Use a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt to gently scrunch away excess moisture from your hair. You should also allow your curls to air dry if possible, as this can reduce frizz. If a blow dryer is to be used, it is advisable to use a diffuser attachment using low heat/low speed settings to help control frizz.
Step 7- Remove the Gel
The gel cast needs to be removed so that softness can be achieved. You can remove the gel cast using either clean hands or a few drops of lightweight oil while still keeping the original definition of the curls.
Step 8 - Protecting your curls
To achieve this, you should either sleep on a satin/silk pillowcase or "pineapple" your curls (gather them at the top of your head and secure them loosely) so they don't come into contact with the pillowcase. If neither option is available, using a satin scarf or bonnet to cover your hair is also a good way to maintain curly definition while sleeping and to keep curls from losing shape for the next day.
Homemade Alternatives To CGM Products
You can follow the Curly Girl Method on a budget! If you want to save some money by not spending on all the products approved by the Curly Girl Method (CGM), that’s totally fine! You probably already have most of what you need in your kitchen for your curls!
1 Co-Wash
A co-wash is a cleansing conditioner. It must be slippery, light & hydrating.
To make your own co-wash, you will need:
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2 tbsp Aloe Vera Gel
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1 tbsp Coconut Milk
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3 tbsp Water
Mix well and massage into the scalp and rinse afterward. The Aloe Vera gives the scalp a refreshing feel while Coconut Milk moisturizes.
2 Conditioner
All you need for your conditioner is smooth, creamy, & hydrating
To make your own conditioner, you will need:
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2 tbsp Curd (Yogurt)
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1 tsp Honey
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1 tsp Olive Oil
Blend all the ingredients and you’ll have a very hydrating conditioner for going curly!! This conditioner nourishes the curls and reduces roughness. It’s much easier to de-tangle when using this conditioner.
3 Leave-In Conditioner
Leave-Ins must be lightweight/water-soluble.
DIY Spray Leave-In:
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1/2 cup Rose Water
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1 tsp Aloe Vera Gel
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3-4 drops of light oil (You can use Argan Oil: It’s awesome!)
Put the mixture into a spray bottle, mist the damp curly hair and allow it to dry. This will provide hydration without weighing down your already beautiful curls.
4 Curl Creams – (Curl creams Define & Control Frizz)
Here’s a simple curl cream recipe:
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1 tbsp Shea Butter
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1 tbsp Olive Oil
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1 tbsp Sweet almond oil
Whisk up. Add a small amount, because you don't want anything that is too wet. This is a very moisturizing product that is excellent for dry, porous-dry hair.
5 DIY Curl-Defining Gel
You don't have to buy gel from a store - you can easily create your own with the ingredients in your kitchen.
Flaxseed Gel:
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Boil two tablespoons of flax seed in one cup of water.
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Strain (when it has thickened).
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Add two or three drops of lavender oil (optional).
Provides a firm hold, creates defined curls, and will not cause any crunch.
Curly Hair Method Common Mistakes and Fixes
Every curly-haired person has experienced looking in the mirror and wondering, "Why do my curls look worse after trying out the Curly Hair Method??" Don't worry, you're not the only one! The Curly Hair Method is a wonderful way to manage curls, but it does have a learning curve.
Mistake 1: Using An Excessive Amount of Product
Many people have the misconception that the more gel you use, the more defined your curls will be. However, the truth is that too much product will make your curls crunchy, sticky, and dull.
Solution:
If you have fine or wavy hair, use only a small amount of product (gel or mousse) to start with. Only add more if necessary; you can always add more. However, you can't 'undo' products that have already been applied!
Mistake 2: Insufficient Water When You Style Your Hair
Curly hair loves water! The best way to prevent frizzy or uneven curls is to apply product to your hair while it is still soaking wet.
Solution:
For best results, always apply product to soaking wet curls. Think "dripping wet curls = Happy Curls".
Mistake 3: Using Too Much of Either Protein or Moisture
The Curly Girl Method gets mentioned quite often in terms of protein moisture balance; however, it's very easy to abuse either one.
Signs of Excessive Protein: Your curls are stiff and straw-like. Signs of Excessive Moisture are that your curls are mushy and limp.
Mistake 4 - Not clarifying your hair often enough
There are several instances in which buildup occurs. In these situations, your curls may lack definition and feel heavy. If you’re using products from CGM that are sulfate-free, you’ll still experience buildup.
The remedy is to clarify your hair every 2 to 4 weeks with strong clarifiers (preferably sulfate-free). Clarifying washes restore health and life to your curls.
Mistake 5 - Touching your curls too much
During the drying process, While you may think your curls look cute while drying, the reality is that every time you touch them, you are creating frizz. The remedy is to keep your hands off your curls! Allow your curls to dry thoroughly without any disturbance, and once they are completely dry, simply scrunch the dried gel from your curls.
Right Habits for CGM
The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is like entering into a new love affair with curls, exhilarating, unpredictable, and occasionally perplexing. The right habits will benefit your curl by giving lustrous curls that you never thought were possible.
1 Pay Attention To Your Hair And Not The Internet
Every head of curly hair is different. CGM has so many rules, it is overwhelming. However, when it comes to your curls, listen to what they are telling you. If your hair wants a bit of conditioner applied to the scalp, that's the way it should be. If your curls do not like co-washing, stop it! Your curls are the decision makers. Tune in to what works for your individual hair.
2 Water Is The Best Curling Product
Before applying gel, curl cream, or anything else, remember that water is the key ingredient. When styling your hair, always do so on wet hair. The more water there is, the more defined the curl.
3 Experiment To Find Your Best Curling Method
There are lots of methods to style curly hair. Try several until you find one that you love and that produces results for your curls. Some methods are:
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Squish to Condish
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Praying Hands Method
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Rake and Shake Method
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The Denman Brush Method
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Finger Coiling
Once you have determined which technique works best for your curls, you will be shocked at how well they perform compared to other techniques.
4 Moisture Keeps Curls Lasting Longer
In order to keep your curls looking good for longer, apply a leave-in product then seal the moisture using a styling product of your choice.
5 Use a Clarifying Wash Regularly
Over time, every product will build up on your curls. To keep them fresh and bouncy, it's a best practice to use a clarifying wash every 2-4 weeks.
6 Be Patient - Your Curls Are Learning Again
CGM won't give you an overnight miracle. It's a slow and beautiful change. Trust it. Celebrating the little things that you're going to do for your curls now will pay off in the long run.
DIY Routine Using a Weekly Schedule
Your curls are worth the love and consistency!! Use this simple & cost-effective weekly routine to keep your hair happy without having to spend a fortune on fancy products.
This routine includes simple and low-cost homemade products, ideal for those just getting into the world of textured hair.
DAY 1- Washing Your Hair (Most Important Day for Curls)
Step 1: Cleansing
A gentle sulfate-free shampoo will cleanse your hair effectively. DIY cleansing using shikakai (shikakai powder + water) or by mixing together aloe vera gel with mild shampoo works well.
The focus here will be on your scalp. Use your fingers only, not your nails.
Step 2: Conditioning and Detangling
Silicone-Free Conditioner or DIY Methi (fenugreek) gel mixed with Aloe works well for detangling and adding slip.
Finger detangling is recommended; if you must use a comb, make sure you have a wide-tooth comb.
Step 3: Styling Hair
While It Is Soaking Wet. After applying your favourite Leave-in (aloe vera gel) to your soaking wet hair, apply DIY Flaxseed Gel for curl definition. Scrunch the hair until it begins to form clumps.
Step 4: Drying
Plop with a cotton t-shirt for 10-15 minutes and then either air dry or diffuse on low.
DAY 2: Refreshing Curls
Your curls don’t need a full routine on this day. Just a little love.
Mix Water + Aloe Vera Gel in a spray bottle. Now lightly mist curls with this mixture.
Gently scrunch curls into the same shape you revived them in with this mixture.
Add only a tiny bit of Gel (if your curls need it).
Day 3- Moisture Recovery
If your hair feels dry/dull. Apply a tiny amount of the DIY aloe gel to damp hands.
Squeeze it in the curl strands (don’t rake through them).
Add a pea-sized amount of relevant gel to create definition.
Optional: Steam should occur for approximately 5-6 minutes- even steaming over a bucket of steaming hot water yields great results.
Day 4- Light Re-Design or Protective Style
Depending on how your hair looks.
If it still looks fine → spritz with water and scrunch.
If it looks messy → try the pineapple, loose braid, or half-up bun styles; this gives you a low-maintenance hairday.
Day 5 - Mini Cleanse (Co-Cleansing or Water Cleansing)
If your scalp is not oily. Then use either a silicone-free conditioner, or you can create a DIY methi gel to do a light cleansing.
Then rinse thoroughly.
Then apply a splash of the aloe gel along with the DIY flaxseed gel.
Let it air dry.
Doing so resets the curl without a complete wash day.
Day 6 - Light Reset & Anti-Frizz Product Application
Use 2-3 drops of a light oil (e.g. sweet almond) to the ends of the hair only.
Do a slight smoothing of the curl clumps to promote shine and moisture, and gently finger coiling of the occasional misbehaving curl.
Day 7 - Clarification & Scalp Reset (Unlike the others, once every 2 weeks)
Unlike other weekly routines, this day is set aside just for a scalp and hair clarifying.
When caring for curls, there are many ways to achieve desirable curl patterns. The Curly Girl Method promotes natural curls.
Conclusion: Better Hair, The Way You Want It!
Using the Curly Girl Method does not mean you have to conform to the same techniques used by other curlies; however, the basic premise is to love your curl. With the right products and patience, you can transform your frizzy and unruly curls into soft, defined, and healthy curls. Every curly's curl pattern is unique. Take your time to test different products and find out what works best for your unique curl pattern. Remember to be patient; there is no such thing as perfect curls! Enjoy the process of learning how to embrace and celebrate your curls each wash day!
Recommended Products
Best Organic and Natural Shampoo
References
https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/a34292024/curly-girl-method-how-to/
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/curly-girl-method
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6894537/
https://www.healthline.com/health/curly-girl-method
https://www.curlyworld.com/cgmethod
https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/hair-scalp-care/hair/curly-hair-care
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